Depilling
Pilling happens when short or broken fibers tangle into small balls on the fabric surface. It's not a sign of cheap fabric by itself: high-quality merino pills too, especially in high-friction areas (underarms, sides, anywhere a bag rubs). The difference is that quality fibers form fewer, smaller pills that are easy to remove without damaging the fabric underneath.
Fabric shavers (electric lint removers with a rotating blade) work well on knits, fleece, and wool. Hold the fabric taut and work in slow, flat strokes. Let the shaver do the work: pressing hard damages the fabric. Replace the blade head when it stops cutting cleanly, because a dull blade pulls and snags instead of cutting.
Sweater stones (pumice-like abrasive blocks) work similarly for knitwear and are gentler. Good for cashmere or fine merino where a shaver feels too aggressive.
Prevention: turn knitwear inside-out for washing, use a mesh laundry bag, wash on gentle cycle, and wash less often. The friction of washing causes pilling. The friction of wearing it does too, but you can't avoid that.
Re-Waterproofing DWR Coatings
DWR (Durable Water Repellent) is a coating applied to the outer face of shell garments (rain jackets, softshells, technical outerwear). It causes water to bead and roll off rather than saturating the face fabric. When it fails, water "wets out" on the face fabric, which reduces breathability and makes the jacket feel cold even when the waterproof membrane underneath is intact.
DWR degrades through use, dirt accumulation, and washing. The fix is straightforward:
Step 1: wash the garment first. Dirt and oils poison DWR chemistry. Use a technical wash cleaner like Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers Performance Wash. Standard detergent leaves residues that make the problem worse.
Step 2: reapply DWR. Two options:
Wash-in treatments (Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In, Grangers Performance Repel Plus): added during the rinse cycle of a machine wash. Easy to apply, good coverage on all surfaces including seams and zippers. Can slightly reduce breathability because they coat the interior of the fabric as well.
Spray-on treatments (Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On, Granger's Performance Repel Spray): applied to the outer face only. Requires more care to apply evenly, but doesn't affect breathability of the membrane. Better for high-performance gear where breathability is critical.
Step 3: activate the coating with heat. Run the garment in a low-heat tumble dryer for 20-30 minutes, or iron on low with a cloth between the iron and the garment. Heat cross-links the DWR polymers and dramatically improves performance.
A garment that seems "dead" on DWR often just needs a wash and heat cycle to reactivate existing coating before you add more.
Leather Conditioning
Leather is dried, tanned animal skin. It loses moisture over time, especially with exposure to salt (sweat, road salt, ocean spray), heat, and UV light. Conditioning replaces that moisture and keeps the fibers supple.
For smooth leather shoes and bags: clean off dirt and salt residue first with a damp cloth. Apply a conditioning cream or oil (Saphir Renovateur, Venetian Shoe Cream, or plain neatsfoot oil for work leather) with a cloth or brush, let it absorb for 10-15 minutes, then buff off excess. Don't over-condition: once a month for shoes in regular use is plenty. More frequent conditioning can soften leather to the point where it loses structure.
For suede and nubuck: brush with a suede brush to lift the nap. Use a suede protector spray. Don't use conditioning oils on suede: it will darken and flatten the texture permanently.
Moth Prevention
Clothes moths (Tineola bisselliella) don't eat fabric themselves. It's the larvae that do the damage, and they feed specifically on keratin: the protein in wool, cashmere, and other animal fibers. They prefer dark, undisturbed storage, and they're drawn to garments with food stains or body oils, which is why clean storage is the primary defense.
Cedar: red cedar wood releases oils that repel moths. Cedar blocks, balls, and hangers work when fresh. The problem is the oils dissipate within a few months. Sanding cedar blocks lightly with fine sandpaper refreshes them by exposing fresh wood underneath. Cedar doesn't kill eggs or larvae that are already present.
Lavender: some repellent effect, but significantly weaker than cedar. More useful as a supplement than a primary defense.
Mothballs (naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene): actually toxic to moth larvae. They work, but the chemical smell permeates fabric and takes a long time to air out. Use them in sealed storage only, not in an open wardrobe.
Practical approach: wash or dry-clean wool before seasonal storage (larvae are attracted to soiled garments), store in sealed bags or airtight containers with cedar blocks, and check stored items every 3-4 months.
Proper Storage: Wool and Linen
Wool: never hang heavy knitwear. The weight of the garment stretches the shoulders and distorts the shape. Fold knits and store flat. Wool jackets and coats can hang on wide, structured hangers. Breathable garment bags (cotton or canvas, not plastic) allow air circulation while keeping dust and moths out.
Linen: linen can be folded or hung. If folded for long-term storage, re-fold along different lines periodically to avoid permanent creasing at the same spots. Store clean and in a dry location. Linen is naturally resistant to moths and mildew (it's plant-based), but moisture causes mildew, so keep it dry.
For any garment going into seasonal storage: wash it first, let it fully dry, then store. Soiled or damp garments in storage is how you get moths, mildew, and fabric breakdown.